Thursday, May 5, 2011

Paris. Bread

Baguette de tradition Francaise

 Every year at the end of April or the beginning of May the city of Paris goes on high alert.  It is the time for the selection of the best baguette in the city and, undoubtedly, in the world!  Every since 1994, the challenge has been thrown down to the bakers of Paris to create the best baguette possible within the rules of the competition.  And the rules could hardly be stricter.  These are not your ordinary run-of-the-mill baguettes, these are les baguettes de tradition.  They must be the right length, the right weight, have only the approved amount of salt.  This year saw 174 entries and of these 38 were immediately disqualified.  Even a fraction too long or overweight is enough to disqualify a competitor.

So, just what is required? What is it that the fifteen judges are looking for?  Indeed, who are the fifteen who will select this final winning loaf and award the prize of 4,000 euro and the distinction of supplying bread to the Elysee Palace for the year. Among the judges were a fromager, a teacher at the boulangerie school of Paris, the 2010 winner and a food critic, as well as six Parisians chosen randomly after they entered a lottery.

Each baguette is measured and weighed.  Baguettes must measure between 55 and 70cm and weigh between 240g and 310g  The baguette shouldn't have more than 18g of salt [per kg, ie 4.5g per 250g baguette].

The baguettes are then submitted to the judges who taste, prod, look at the crust and the crumb and even tap them to hear what they sounds like.  According to last year's prize winner the golden crust is the most important aspect of a good baguette.

Last December when we were in Paris, we frequently purchased our baguettes from a bakery near the Abbesses Metro station.  The staff there were charming and helpful and the bread very good.  Imagine our surprise to find that "our" boulangerie is now the source of the best baguette in the city.  Of course, the real advantage to winning the title is the popularity that follows.  When we walked by the boulangerie yesterday there was a line even longer than usual even though the actual baker has probably moved on to greater things.

The winning Boulangerie

No comments:

Post a Comment