Sunday, April 10, 2011

Marseilles, Day 3

Sunday and we decided today was the day to catch the hop-on, hop-off after yesterday's fiasco.  Down we went and were there at 10.00 when the first trip of the day set off.  After a short discussion with the driver we purchased our "seniors" tickets and set off.  As a general rule we try to do the whole circuit once before going back to see any sights that particularly appeal to us.  The tour took about an hour and a half and was very thorough.  Rather than try to follow the tour, we'll just mention some of the highlights. 

We started out going past the old fortifications at the entrance to the harbour and then swung along the beautiful shoreline.  Because it was a warm day, the beaches were full.

Entrance to the Harbourt
Marseilles Beach
Bathing in the Mediterranean

On the waterfront is the Porte de l'Orient, a memorial to all those who died for France in North Africa.

Porte de l'Orient

On the ride, my eye was drawn to a directional marker.  Having just finished re-reading Beau Geste, I was excited to see that I could go to the recruitment office for the Legion Etranger, better known as the Foreign Legion.  It was with some difficulty that Virginia held me back pointing out that the likelihood of them having any interest in a 73 year old enlistee was, to put it kindly, slight.

Legion Etranger Recruitment

The bus twisted its way up to the highest point in Marseilles where stands the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde. As well as being a major local landmark, it is the site of a popular annual pilgrimage every Assumption Day (August 15). Local inhabitants commonly refer to it as la bonne mère ("the good mother"). A square bell-tower of 41m (135 feet) is surmounted by a belfry of 12.5m (42 feet) which itself supports a monumental, 11.2m (27 feet) tall statue of the Madonna and Child made out of copper gilded with gold leaf.

The Basilica
la bonne mère

On the way back to the Old Port, we passed the Catholic Cathedral. The present cathedral, the "Nouvelle Major", was built on an enormous scale in Byzantine-Roman style from 1852 to 1896 on the site used for the cathedrals of Marseille since the fifth century.

The Cathedral

On our return we walked around the area of the Old Port.  On the dock, there were fresh fish for sale.  In fact, they were so fresh that getting too close was likely to eventuate in getting splashed as they flip-flopped around.  Al though prices were listed, we could hear the locals bargaining over what were, already, very cheap prices.

Cutting up a fish for sale
Fresh fish and eels

In addition to the fish market, there is an area which is set aside for the sale of flowers.

The Flower Market

There are some lovely old arches along the front and a number of very nice places to eat or stop for a drink. 

Arches along the front
Our favourite "watering hole"

After a quiet dinner in which I sampled the local "Moules Frites" or mussels with a side order of French Fries, we went back to the room to pack for our return to Paris in the morning.

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